Athens Reimagined [Part 3]

Most people would have made sure to visit the Acropolis on their travels to Athens. I was interested in something a little more off-beat, even though it would mean passing through the equally overtouristed heart of Plaka (the Old Town) to get there.

The Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments turned out to be a dark, cosy, cavernous space. Evoking not just the sounds but the ornamental patterns and textiles of wartime Greece, it was fun to explore its three storeys. My gaze sometimes rested on a traditional grey stone arch that was integrated into the wall as I listened to stirring musical tracks. Elsewhere on the walls were large photos, mostly of elderly men playing the eponymous instruments. I searched for and found the odd image of a woman, but the ratio was disproportionate enough to make me think that the Greek patriarchy was one of Europe's most persistent.   

Migrating to the uppermost floor, there was something cheery and comforting about the variety of wooden designs among the collection of instruments. They were decorated in ways both intricate and stark, mostly using white markings. Knowing they were made for emotional resonance and cultural enrichment made me more appreciative of their beauty. The quirkiest made my day.  

After much lingering it was time to plunge back into the maze of Plaka, and indulge my love for the islands by ascending to Anafiotika. This singular neighbourhood was a tiny collection of whitewashed buildings in the style of the residents' former lodgings on Anafi. While the architecture looked like it had seen fresher years, it had an ageing charm which sweeping views of Athens did nothing to diminish. I enjoyed the white and grey staircases, blue doors and generous distribution of potted plants gracing the micro-suburb. A small church and abundant greenery added atmosphere, as did a burst of graffiti, antifa and otherwise. (1312 in Athens, also.)

I noticed that the locals of Anafiotika had put up signs encouraging visitors to be mindful of their noise levels, and respectful of the fact that they were walking through real homes. A poster showcasing stunning views of Anafi suggested a yearning for the land long left behind. Those views had me making a mental note to return to the Greek islands. They could keep me busy for quite a while, when the time was right...     

Descending to Plaka, I gravitated towards a yoghurt dessert shop, treating myself to a cup of their creamy produce with figs on top. My mind wandered to the day before, when I had first set foot in the narrow streets of the Old Town and been enveloped by a dreamy, yellow glow emanating from the buildings. Being here in late September was not sufficiently off-season to escape the crowds, but I had enjoyed people watching over gyros, bargaining for shiny gifts, and marveling over various art galleries.   

After an assortment of pleasurable experiences in Athens, I would be leaving for Sofia, Bulgaria tomorrow.