- In 2023 my travels diverged a bit from how they usually unfold: I chose places more popular with tourists. Noticing a conspicuous absence of backpackers in southern France made me feel a little like a fish out of water. I had the thought, ‘is this glamorous, conservative and super-affluent landscape suited to me?’ I comforted myself by tapping into other, deeply formative thoughts, such as: ‘A place is made up by the people in it, and now that you’re here, you’re bringing your unique presence and making it ‘an Epiphanie place’.’
- I chose to travel to France and Italy, two of the most visited countries in Europe, hoping to experience a different flavour of people than can be found in Paris and Roma/Firenze/Venezia. In other words, I looked for places with well-worn appeal, but slightly removed from the top-tier attractions.
- There are a handful of travellers who have published enthusiasm for ‘Second Cities’, noting that people are often friendlier outside the nation’s foremost urban centre. Second Cities are also typically full of interesting sights, which you can bond with more intimately in the absence of the tourist crowds of the First City. In addition, the locals frequently have more time to vibe with you when you ask them a question or strike up a conversation, because life moves at a slower pace. Did I mention it’s less expensive?
- So then, I found myself with an interest in Marseille, the Second City of France. I had heard it was gritty, but also that it had an appeal for connoisseurs of multiculturalism, thanks to the book ‘Afropean’ by Johny Pitts. When I found that Marseille was one of the least expensive French hubs to fly into from my base in Hannover, Germany, I seized the opportunity. I had extra reason to visit France in 2023 because I knew next year it would be inundated with crowds on account of the Paris 2024 Olympics.
- I did not enjoy Marseille the way I enjoyed the rest of Provence and Carcassonne, but I did like this one thing very much: when I made eye contact with people on the street, they searched for, found, and heightened the charm in me. There was an insistence that life should be charming - it was a guiding concept. This elevated my spirits despite the grotty pavements, not infrequently run-down buildings and the visibly trodden-upon spirits of the Black, brown and PoC population. It was possible to find a sexy side to the city, and I found pleasure in its fine arts museum, imaginative approach to food and fashion at MUCEM, and enjoyed languidly people-watching at a small, elegant, cream-coloured square facing the Opera House.
- Despite the undeniably interesting nature of Marseille, I soon found myself longing for fresh air and a smaller scale environment. Enter Cassis, a village I uncovered whilst searching for accommodation in Marseille. Close enough to the big city for me to get there easily, and with its own unique charm, I found myself wishing I had stayed longer than three days. But then, I averaged 3.5 days in each of my southern French locations, not ready to commit to a deep dive in a region known as a rich person’s playground. (The exception was Arles, where I had prepared to stay for a week, but issues with the accommodation saw me leaving early.)
- Aix-en-Provence was a city I knew little about, but was intrigued by, because I’d seen photos from its attractions and it seemed filled with possibilities. I felt a bit let down upon arrival, because it lacked the cosmopolitan flair of Marseille. It was an altogether whiter, less diverse, and more conservative affair. However, it was distinctly more attractive than Marseille architecturally, and wondering the streets, I started conversing with a young, Black man dispersing smoothies. It turned out he was passionate about manga (the Japanese comics), which he told me about while blending mangoes and strawberries. Fearing the familiar sexism I usually uncover in men, I didn’t engage too deeply.
- I felt myself becoming a little pretentious with repeated exposure to French mannerisms. On a more positive level, I arranged my body and speech in a more graceful, elegant way. There would be time to filter out the pretence and hold on to the refinement in the future.
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