Sometimes a country doesn’t weave its charms around you the first time round. But if you’re willing to leave behind first impressions, question any prejudices built, and admit that you might have missed the point, that openness will likely guide you into new territory. So it was with Finland - and now, Portugal.
I paid closer attention to the people this time, mostly in the form of taxi drivers and other people on my payroll, but I had the good luck to be seated next to an intelligent and friendly local on the bus from Lisbon to Óbidos. We must have talked for an hour, discussing how only a minority of Portuguese have a rich interiority, despite their material wealth. Yet, it’s possible to find like-minded souls if you’re open to the journey - they were married to one.
My travel companion enjoyed dancing, and the natural beauty of the beach in their hometown. They clearly have hope for the future, as they are preparing for the birth of a child. Even if rent eats up more than half their income, they still make enough to make ends meet. Visits back to Cape Verde, the cherished place of their origin, contribute to their well-being.
What was not said but felt, was an openness to tourists and a keen eye for amiable connection. I felt better for having this encounter.
One taxi driver offered the following aphorism: “Everybody likes us.” This was not delivered with pomp, but with a steady assurance. They must have noted the frequency with which visitor numbers are increasing, and adapted with goodwill - for if you expect people to appreciate you, you tend to be appreciated.
There are many things to enjoy about Portugal, and I have only scratched the surface, but I will leave you with a portrait of a Portuguese Empress called Eleanor who married German royalty in the 1500s and displays something of the national personality profile on her face: warm, dignified, with culturally Christian values.
