Thursday 15 August 2024

Notable Moments in My 2024 Travels [2]

- I wasn’t fortunate enough to have a memorable conversation with anyone in Cologne, but three museums stood out to me, each quite different to the next: The Ludwig Museum presented me with a rich feast of thought-provoking modern art. Two cubist artworks by the Ukrainian-born Alexandra Exter made a strong impression, with their elegant, nuanced tributes to the cities of Paris and Genoa, where the artist spent a lot of time. I was excited to see that a piece by Yayoi Kusuma had been made space for, a collection of objects made from fabric of different colours, topped by her signature white dots. Finally, I will mention one of the most modern contributions in the temporary exhibition, an outdoors idyll in which a Black, heterosexual couple enjoy tending to their yard, a small, brown dog as their companion, and a building reminiscent of the White House in the background. The artist intended to situate Black people as inhabiting an American landscape with a great sense of belonging. The couple are at home, possessing a healthy relationship to both their land and the socio-political systems of their country. A state to aspire to. 

- In the Chocolate Museum, I learnt what the cocoa plant looks like in the forests native to the African nations where it is grown. I watched videos of how the plant is treated, fascinated by the sticky, white contents of the husk, and the many steps it takes to transform the raw material into a most enjoyable snack. The museum makes sure the viewer understands some harsh realities, including the frequent exploitation of children for labour in the chocolate-making process, how often the cocoa farmers don’t turn in much of a profit, and how rarely they get to taste chocolate themselves. On a less tragic scale, we were guided through the international shipping process, during which I learnt that it’s possible to contaminate the raw product if it’s placed next to certain kinds of produce - particularly those with a strong smell. There is an emphasis on ethics here, and the price of your ticket goes in part towards sustainable chocolate making processes. (It also goes toward several samples of the delicious treat, and you can purchase even more chocolate in the café next to the museum.)

- The Museum of East Asian Art inspired slow browsing and quiet contemplation. The dim lighting of the first part of the exhibition contributed to the atmosphere. There was a fantastic Japanese statue of a deity (which looked ferocious) to greet us, and beautiful art on paper scrolls nearby. I was surprised to find erotic art from China, rare as it is. From mainland porcelain to Tibetan mandalas, the Chinese section was the biggest, but I made sure I had enough attention span left for the South Korean collection towards the end. This museum made me want to extend my travels into Asia again.

- Finally, I have fond memories of lunching on a chicken schnitzel, salad and chips, while overlooking the front of the famous cathedral. From my vantage point I could notice every inch of the intricate facade. An overwhelming amount of artistic detail had been the aim, and it had succeeded because I couldn’t decide which section was the most photogenic. I experimented with lots of different framing in between those tasty bites.

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