Thursday, 13 January 2011

Wednesday, 12 January 2011

Breathing Fire Will Burn Your Mouth

Rushing, to find a spot where I can laze
Securing silence, by means of hyperactive conversation
As natural as possible after strategic manipulation
Thinking in boxes so I can savour my imagination

Appeasing errant logics, so that I may dream
It’s been a while since I’ve been free to roam
This mind-numbing mask of congeniality I don
You think that I stand erect as a source of strength
But I long to droop, so I can feel, and vent
Perpetually biting back the bitterness
Has made me into a ticking time bomb
Appearing carefree, roiling on the inside
But now I realise I didn’t need to hold back
Realise you’re somehow capable of understanding
A little more than previously suspected
And I no longer have to intoxicate myself
Til I’m profoundly distended

I would thank you, but I'm still confused
Still too many options from which to choose...

Monday, 10 January 2011

The 'Wrong' Side Of The Road

It was my first proper day in Chiang Mai. I crept down the creaky wooden stairs, past the computer area and open air lounge, to where the sofas and chairs overlooked the small but pretty swimming pool to find... that someone else had had the same idea. That someone else was female, had greying hair, and the unfortunate urge to chat with whoever came along.
As she proceeded to tell me all about her trip to the south, barely pausing to ask me my nationality (Oh, I've found Australians to be rather friendly), she had intruded into my vulnerable, still-sleepy world far more than I had imagined anyone could. I had no idea what to say to get myself out of the situation, because she just kept talking. Fortunately, her ignorance became to rear its ugly head in ways easy to satirise.
"So, you know here, they drive on the wrong side - do you drive on the wrong side of the road in Australia?"
I decided to be kind and not give a totally biting response. "Well, it's not the wrong side..."
Unwilling to admit to her culturally insensitive ways, the woman, enfeebled, nevertheless tried to recommence her reflections, but I told her that I wanted to write in my diary. I think she suspected that I was writing about what a moron she was for the rest of our uneasy silence.

But seriously, Pico Iyer has used this trope of 'the wrong side of the road' when it comes to vehicular activity as well; wake up, people: America isn't the centre of the universe! What may feel 'right' to you isn't the default option in the grand scheme of things! Imagine how absurd it is to think of a whole country of people going. "Well, I've had my breakfast, and now I'm going to drive to work - on the wrong side of the road!" Does the typical Australian do this with a traditional sense of pride, or a twisted one? "Little do poor, unsuspecting Americans know that by cultivating this culture of wrongness, I am subtly influencing events overseas, to the extent of making poor US travelers feel downright disoriented when visiting countries like Thailand! *cue evil chuckle*"

;o)

What Did 3 Months in Thailand Teach Me?

My readers will know that over the last 14 months I have made three separate trips to the Thai kingdom. (In Nov-Dec 2009 I visited Bangkok, Lopburi and Nong Khai, in March-April 2010 I visited Bangkok, Kamphaeng Phet, Suphanburi, Kanchanaburi and Phuket Town, and in Dec 2010 - Jan 2011 I visited Chiang Mai, Pai, Lampang and Bangkok.) So what have I learnt from my in-depth investigation into Thai culture?

a) Although it's a developing country, you can still live as if you were in a developed nation, if you have the means and imagination. While squat toilets are popular in Thailand, so are Western-style flush ones, and finding one of the latter is quite easy - if you are pursuing the typical tourist experience you will be plied by this upgrade from the traditional Thai norm anyway. Scrumptious Thai food, prepared under a level of hygiene that resembles that of the developed world, can be found in classy restaurants all over. Staying at the coastline will give you plenty of fresh, unpolluted air, and it's not hard to nab a lovely view while you're at it (not usually at budget level, of course). 

b) Thai people grow up with beautiful, flowing, Buddhist-themed art all around them. As I was waiting in Chiang Mai's Airport, I noticed that the self-check in machines placed nearby had these beautiful curves to their design - from tip to toe, the machines looked like they had been modeled on a piece of ribbon descending towards the ground at leisure. This level of artistry is not usually found in the West. While design culture varies, usually we are treated to rather straight-forward technological bodies. Meanwhile, Thailand embraces what I see as innovative art and design, managing to infuse any and every environment with a special ambiance.

c) Thai people are very good at business. They greet you with a casual openness and amiable manner, but are very firm in directing you towards the price they think you should be paying, even if that price is rather inflated due to your tourist status. Bargaining gives you the illusion of control, but the businessperson sets the pace, integrity and spectrum for the transaction every time. The best you can do is to go with the flow and be as firm as possible, by retaining your own sense of firmness, and keeping bamboo stick metaphors in mind (bamboo bends to the wind, but never breaks).

d) Wherever you go, life is best by the water. I love the temples of Chiang Mai and Lampang, and admire the laid-back hippie sensibility of Pai in the valley, but Thailand thrives economically and socially even more where the land kisses vast bodies of water i.e. the sea. Phuket, Hua Hin and Pattaya were some of my favourite places in Thailand.

e) The Thais who are trying to learn English are just as confused by its lack of tonal aspects as English-speakers are confused by the tonality of Thai. "How do I say it?" exclaimed a student of English to me as she looked at her English book in bewilderment. "There are no tones." I tried to read the text to her as naturally as possible, and, just as I eventually 'got' how to say 'thank you' and other little bits of Thai, she let herself be guided by a logic which must seem hard to place, especially at first.

f) All of East Asia seems to have some kind of Chinese influence. "We are all originally Chinese," mused my friend Giorgi, who has some Portuguese blood. You can see the influence of the giant nation in the religious architecture, the food, the abundance of Chinese traditional medicine, and random signs all over the place.

g) Thailand has a long history of monarchy and civilisation, but not of pretentiousness. In fact, Thais are disarmingly open and companionable. They offer themselves, open, and in doing so invite you to be similarly charitable with your spirit. It's a gorgeous gift which endears me to the people muchly.

There are many other lessons I learnt, of course, but I'll have to stop here for now. 

Saturday, 8 January 2011

Meet me in Sydney (The Eternal Traveler Touches Base)

Scoop me up and deposit me
Somewhere left of the Tasman Sea
Pry me from the terrain of other nations
Deliver me from my anxiety

Do I carry the soil of other nations on my shoes?
No, but I carry the soul of a incurable traveler
And the auras of other countries cling to me still
Try to wrest them from me, if you will
This most futile of endeavours
Trying to provide a home
To the eternal traveler

There's little for it but to feel the punch
Of the soul who wishes to reset my cultural compass
Please have mercy; I'm a little out of touch
Only so much hostility I can stomach

Yet I'm inclined to believe
I've been missing elements of your singular entity
Willing to find the good intent,
Push past the initial emnity

Possibly poised to exalt you

So cherish me, Australia
Welcome me in full regalia
Of love, acceptance, tolerance and trust
Be a community I can fleetingly commit to
Ever transient, at long last

Thank you, TripAdvisor





    Sunday, 2 January 2011

    Finding Myself in Bangkok

    So here I am again, in the land of a thousand candy-coloured cabs, where the megamall lives in its natural habitat, cuddled by massive roads and dirt-streaked elevated walkways where children wilt loudly on the steps, hoping you will be charitable. I'm minutes away from MBK, Siam Paragon and a few other shopping complexes, which will ensure that I am never short on fine food or Hollywood blockbusters. In fact, I hear The Tourist is out now...

    Seeing as I'm in the land of consumer paradise, I might as well get my hair dyed, my teeth whitened and buy new shoes (or thongs, as the case may be). And if I'm too lazy to do any of those things, well, so be it.

    One of my friends gave me a virtual kiss on the lips on New Year's Eve, which I celebrated at the Chiang Mai airport. The rest of the day was spent feeling exhausted, and I thought I saw an old friend in MBK (but I was probably wrong). I'm still actually quite exhausted. I would like to say that my last post of poetry could have been a lot better, so when I have time I'll work on it.

    I was creating a list of all the countries I either hope to visit this year, or would really like to visit even though it's unlikely:

    Iceland,
    Taiwan,
    Argentina,
    Mexico,
    Canada,
    Belgium,
    Norway,
    Portugal,
    Spain,
    Sweden,
    Denmark,
    Scotland,
    Ireland,
    New Zealand,
    Japan.

    Ironically, I have visited one of the cities Lonely Planet recommended for 2011 already - I spent my first few hours of the year in Chiang Mai.

    Lots of love to you this decade,
    Epiphanie