Sunday, 21 September 2025

A Memory of Hamburg

I had planned to take my time wandering around HafenCity's little commercial hub before selecting the most appropriate restaurant, but suddenly rain started quickening my pace and saw me dart into the nearest open eatery. 

This turned out to be a franchise, Katzentempel, which served vegetarian or vegan food, while providing customers with the company of freely roaming cats. I seem to remember that the cats had been former strays. They looked healthy and comfortable in the invitingly warm space. 

I was worried about the rain drenching me on the way back home, but I tried to find a little solace in the obvious contentment of the felines. There were three or four of them, and the two that wandered my way were grey, and orange-and-white. I watched a fair youngster with a nasal piercing stroke the radiant creature at their feet. I could see the steady rhythm of the cat's breath through its body, and thought about both living beings being changed for the better by this experience. 

I was served a 'Rainbow Bowl', which featured mock chicken and sliced mango (among other brightly coloured items of vegetables and protein) on a bed of rice. I wondered how often the cats were treated to morsels from the diners, and whether this was discouraged. Although I couldn't finish the sizeable portion, I left it on the table (so as not to contribute to overfeeding). 

I hadn't intended to come back to Hamburg as soon as 2024, but my parents had been curious about it after viewing my photos of the Town Hall, and incorporated the northern city into their European Summer plans. I revisited that site with them, and saw it from a new angle (this time with rain). But the Katzentempel stands out as a truly novel, serendipitous experience. 

After paying I lingered in the pleasant space, hoping the rain would stop, or at least ease up. Nobody seemed to mind. The orange-and-white cat lay down close to me, so I bent down to give it a pat. There was something soothing about it, but mostly I was anxious at the prospect of getting drenched, so I felt like I was reaching for a transcendent moment that never quite arrived. 

Instead of offering just one concept, Katzentempel offers two: Cat Café meets Health Food Restaurant. You can find out more about them here

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